We recreated four looks from Fashion Month with our own closets - The Michigan Daily

glennmonera Haziran 06, 2021

Posted: 08 Oct 2019 06:22 PM PDT

Chanel stunned with classic silhouettes, Cecilie Bahnsen was nothing short of a textural dream and Valentino has us prepping our summer whites, and it's only the Oct. 9. From Paris, Milan, Copenhagen to New York, Fashion Month was a whirlwind. To say that Daily Style is brimming with inspiration on the cusp of these shows would be an understatement.

In the style of a brilliantly styled Man Repeller piece, Daily Style has decided to try our hand at recreating some of the runway's most sought after moments. Easier said than done of course, considering especially the closets of college students and that we spend at least five days a week in and out of classrooms; not the most ideal runway. But, these limitations forced us to get creative, to extrapolate from the looks of fashion month, to build a new approach to getting dressed, to include more than just an elite group in a couture conversation. This exploration was a chance to rethink how we approach our closets, to mix and match, no matter how comical or far off the results may be. If nothing else, these recreations were an excuse to play dress up, and who would say no to that?

— Margaret Sheridan, Style Beat Editor

I can't stress how difficult it was to choose a favorite look from Collina Strada's sustainably-minded Spring Summer 2020 collection, entitled "Thank You Very Much for Helping Me," but I settled on this one for the sense of urgency it conveys. The beige top, emblazoned with a childlike drawing of a globe and the show's titular phrase, is an eerie reminder of what little time we have to combat climate change. A mesh bag replete with produce is slung over the model's left shoulder, giving the impression that she's hurrying home from the farmer's market to toss locally-sourced potatoes into her energy-saving fridge (yes, she lives in Bushwick). Tied together with a billowing patterned skirt, thin beaded belt and chunky sandals, the look represents everything I want the fashion industry to become as it starts taking responsibility for its environmental impact.

My recreation of this outfit is far from precise, but I tried to stay true to its central themes. Layered above my years-old turtleneck (and untucked for accuracy) is a graphic tee I screen-printed for September's Global Climate Strike — I feel like it exudes a similar energy to the original look's. My skirt is reminiscent of the slip style from the show only in that it contains the color orange, but I'm fine with that. A thin chain-link belt functions as my take on the beaded version, and my favorite pair of pink platform Tevas felt right in the footwear department. But the aspect of my faux-Collina Strada look I'm most proud of is, by far, the bag of kale I brought out of my fridge for the occasion.

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Courtesy of Tess Garcia

— Tess Garcia, Daily Style Writer

As I started pairing outfits together for this piece, I quickly found myself surrounded by the entirety of my closet on the floor, overwhelmed at the potential for new outfit anatomies. Not to say that any of the pieces I have selected exactly make sense together, in fact, this outfit walks a fine line between multiple seasons. At its core however, this outfit is extrapolated from the key moments and pieces I saw on the runway.

When considering my design icons, I looked no further than the Dries Van Noten Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear collection, a landscape of florals, polka dots and damn good jackets. While my recreation of this look is far from accurate, I tried to center my iteration around the color and textural relationships at play between base layers and a power jacket on top. Drawn to the lavender billowing pants, I reached for a pair of thrifted lilac bermudas that tie at the waist. A Zara blouse — that I am shamelessly wearing backwards — attempts to embody the airy, high neckline slip seen on the model. As for a layer over these pieces, I went back and forth between my signature orange puffer and a blue faux fur number, ultimately deciding on the latter, given the way the texture of the jacket anchors the original look in the Van Noten show. Although the dusty blue coupled with the lilac is not nearly as dreamy as the lilac and neon orange moment that happened on the runway, the faux fur seemed like too much of a focal point to disregard. To top it off, I again reflected color in footwear, selecting a pair of subtly wedged minty green mules, their finish and hue coming close to the characteristics of those on the model. So, while my recreation makes it unclear as to whether I'm headed to bed, the beach or to brave a tundra, I certainly felt empowered while grappling through the curation of my outfit. That holds more weight to me than any designer coat.

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Courtesy of Margaret Sheridan

— Margaret Sheridan, Daily Style Editor

Jean cut-offs (sometimes known as "jorts") and a blazer have never stood out to me as two things that naturally fit together. The first I associate with hot temperatures in my native Los Angeles backyard and then the other I group with what I wear to an interview where my future is on the line: two very different states of mind. However, Givenchy proved me wrong this year, topping off their wide use of jorts with formalwear. According to W Magazine, Givenchy's Artistic Director, Claire Waight Keller, was inspired by '90s fashion after reading a book by Allison Yarrow titled, "90s Bitch: Media, Culture, and the Failed Promise of Gender Equality." Therefore, Keller made '90s fashion her goal but put a spin on it that she called "liberated femininity" in which she altered popular looks from these decades to appear more free, strong and a little bit grunge. With my own personal style being very casual and sticking to a single theme, this look was a little more difficult for me to get down. I decided to settle for a more casual tee as opposed to a professional button down shirt because besides being safer, it also channels what I see "liberated femininity" to be. I finished it off with high heeled black boots thinking it would exude the toughness that Keller was looking for. In my mind, my outfit illustrates that I don't lose sense of who I am or my power in the workplace when surrounded by toxic masculinity. I am a professional and do my work, but I am not eager to please when it comes to sacrificing my morals.

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Courtesy of Sophia Hughes

— Sophia Hughes, Daily Style Writer

According to Fashionista, Marc Jacobs included a review of his Spring/Summer 2002 show at his namesake label in this season's shownotes. The show took place on the day before Sept. 11, 2001, and spoke of how the joy expressed in that collection eerily encapsulated an era before the panic, before the earth-shifting events that were to take place the very next morning. Closing out NYFW SS20 on Sept. 11, 2020, the inclusion could not be more appropriate. This collection, in his words, is "a celebration of life, joy, equality, individuality, optimism, happiness, indulgence, dreams and a future unwritten." This review has only grown in accuracy over time, as the United States quickly evolved into a surveillance state led by fear and hatred after those tragic events. This collection was about taking a pause and celebrating life during a time that runs several parallels to the time that review was published. In a sociopolitical sphere that feels as though every day has to be a fight and turning on a news channel or simply tapping the twitter app on our phones can trigger an anxiety attack, allowing ourselves the space to feel the pulse that makes life worth living is absolutely vital. On days when I feel anxious and want to hide, I spend a little extra time on my appearance as a way to give myself that extra push to get through it all. This ridiculous sequin pantsuit and red mockneck combo brings me joy, I hope it does the same for you!

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Vogue Runway

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Courtesy of Sam Kremke

— Sam Kremke, Daily Style Writer

Why Sustainable Fashion Matters - Forbes

Posted: 07 Oct 2019 08:43 AM PDT

By: Amanda Cotler

Summer is over and professional woman are falling back to the work routine. Whether you're shuffling between boardrooms or attending your nonprofit's annual gala, most of us struggle to find tailored clothes for business environments that are sustainably made. Whether you are dressing for function, durability, or comfort, it is important to find pieces you can be proud to wear that still meet your sophisticated lifestyle when commitments call.

In recent years, sustainability has become a buzzword and turned a few heads. Just as consumers today are taking a closer look at the food they consume and the chemicals they put into their bodies, they are also shifting their purchasing decisions to create a cleaner environment through the clothes they wear.

[Related: Dress Codes Redefined]

What it really means.

Today, professional woman are savvier than ever and not only pay attention to the quality of their garments, but also the entire supply chain, production processes, and product afterlife. They are more aware that a hang tag using the word "sustainable" does not mean the retailer is using clean processes to develop that garment.

One of the biggest culprits in the fashion industry is "fast fashion," or clothes made cheaply to meet demands for the hot new styles. However, fast fashion is putting our future planet at risk.

After nearly 25 years in the industry, Melissa Nataadiningrat has over a dozen patents and immense product successes under her name, not to mention her extensive knowledge on sustainable fashion.

"What so many of us forget or perhaps don't realize is that sustainability is not just about using bamboo based fibers and slapping the term 'sustainable' on the hang tag. True sustainability comes when the entire supply chain of that bamboo is sustainable.

I've picked bamboo because it's so prevalent in the marketplace and we're told about the benefits of using bamboo-based materials. However, we haven't truly achieved an ecosystem of true sustainability when we're still reading about deforestation, water contamination and shortage, and big business farming putting small farmers out of their livelihoods.

We have to understand that a supply chain is its own ecosystem that must be sustained and supported indefinitely in order for the world to see true environmental impact. We must design, develop, and manufacture into that premise."

Are all fabrics created the same? Are they:

Made to last?
Limiting the amount of wasted fabric in production?
Aware of the environmental impact from fabric production?

Professional woman are catching on to the new trends in textiles and technology. They are choosing garments and materials engineered to last longer. Some of the most sustainable materials are natural fibers (cotton, hemp, linen) and futuristic/innovative fabrics. They are ditching cheap synthetics (polyester, nylon, spandex). These fibers are not grown naturally, and instead come from chemicals and polymers.

We all love those quick-drying polyester tanks and tees because they are cheap, wrinkle-free, and readily available. But they hold on to bacteria and will stink so fast you'll be inclined to throw them away after just a few post-work SoulCycle classes. What you don't realize is that it can take up to 200 years for that garment to decompose. Using cutting-edge technology to create the fabric of the future, companies are paying closer attention to creating cleaner garments.

Megan Eddings, Founder and CEO of Accel Lifestyle, developed a proprietary sustainable fabric that is better for the environment. After years of trial and error, Eddings was able to create a proprietary fabric that includes premium, American-grown Supima cotton. With patents pending in 120 countries, her fabric is a softer, stronger, more versatile fabric with anti-microbial properties.

"Microplastics are a huge concern for not only the environment, but also our health. These synthetic fibers are forms of plastic, and every time you wash fabrics made from these fibers, microplastics are breaking off, and many eventually end up in the oceans, ocean life, and our mouths.

Sustainable fashion takes into account the entire supply chain and life cycle of a garment, from where and how it is made to when it ends up in our landfills. It is important for consumers to think about how their purchase affects the environment, the lifecycle of their garment, and how to invest in clothes that last longer."

Small steps make a big difference.

As professional women, we need to take responsibility for our daily choices. Commit to buying less, limit your outfits per day, and invest in pieces that last longer. Sport outfits that carry you throughout your busiest of days, from the board room to barre class. Those of you who have project-based work know how long the days can be, and investing in staple workwear is becoming a priceless asset.

Next time you're shopping, do your research. Pay close attention to how brands use the term "transparency." Do they really mean it and prove it? Does the brand take initiatives with the fabrics used? Are they committed to ethical/sustainable practices?

It's easy to forget the impact of a purchase or the power you have as a consumer. There are small steps we can take each day to pave the path toward a more sustainable fashion future.

—

Amanda Cotler is the Director of Operations for Accel Lifestyle, a revolutionary fitness apparel brand utilizing innovation, empowerment, and sustainability.

The Biggest Fashion Trend for 2020 May Be Protest - Forbes

Posted: 08 Oct 2019 11:34 AM PDT

Gucci - Runway - Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 — MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22: Models walk the runway at the Gucci Spring/Summer 2020 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on September 22, 2019 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images for Gucci)
Getty Images for Gucci

Mental health protest took center stage in Milan recently when a Gucci designer offended masses of fashion fans, including one of his models. In a bold move made for Instagram, a Gucci model walked the runway in protest with the words Mental Health is Not Fashion penned in black on their palms. Arms out, palms forward, the image was posted and liked by hundreds of thousands of people. The model wrote, "As an artist and a model who has experienced her own struggles with mental health, as well as family members and loved ones who have been affected by depression, anxiety, bipolar and schizophrenia, it is hurtful and insensitive for a major fashion house such as Gucci to use this imagery as a concept for a fleeting fashion moment." The designer defended the pieces he called 'blank style" and told reporters that his utilitarian designs were meant to send different message. Still, many critics said the piece shown looked like a straight-jacket and deemed the work highly offensive.

Controversy Has Its Moment

While this example may seem like something far from mainstream, it's not. Major brands have been deeply apologetic and responsive to the public when they hit a nerve. This is the second time mental health made headlines on the runway. After a model wrote on Instagram that 'suicide is not fashion', referring to a Burberry hoodie that featured a noose around the neck, Burberry pulled the item from stores and the company's chief executive officer issued an apology in a statement to CNN. The Burberry model, Liz Kennedy, said she had tried to speak out about the design she found offensive before the show, but was ignored. She later posted on Instagram: "It is beyond me how you could let a look resembling a noose hanging from a neck out on the runway."

Other earlier examples related to mental health come to mind, too. Protests over underweight models plagued the industry for decades and still do. Victoria's Secret apologized publicly after an executive made controversial statements about transgender and plus-size models being unlikely picks for their annual Fashion Show. The remark was made during a chat with Vogue. The executive, Ed Razek, said that constant suggestions and questions about why they didn't use this or that model took away from an event that was designed to be a 42-minute branded television fantasy. Harsh critical comments on social media got the spotlight. But any attempt to backtrack was for naught. Victoria's Secret, favorite of American men and women, is seeing shrinking profits.

Protest Used to Be Personal, Now It's Viral

What makes this controversy over mental health and how it is stigmatized so different? Its personal. For me, it feels like a tipping point. Like we've reached a moment where protest hasn't just gone viral, it's gone personal. This model was so moved to defend her view that she exposed her entire story to the public in one swift wave of her hand, literally. Put that real story about a real person's feelings and lived experience up against a brand story and what once seemed unimaginable takes only seconds. The personal story gets the spotlight. Mental health gets the spotlight. People are sharing their true stories without concern for the consequences. They want to be seen and they want help.

Why have we hit this point where a single fashion look can capture the attention of millions of people? You could say that the numbers seem to be in our favor—there are just too darn many of us, everywhere, all the time, to be overlooked. It's also true that those who are passionate about the fair and decent treatment of people with mental health issues have been working towards this moment for a long time. It doesn't exist in a vacuum. All that advocacy and awareness has created change agents and disruptors. Models are just the tip of the iceberg. The fashion world represents a tiny chunk of a massive movement in which people with mental health issues demand that they be treated with dignity.

This Type of Protest Won't Die

If you're sitting in a board room or at a manager's meeting thinking, Well, that's the fashion world for you, you're right. The runway is as likely a place as any for people to be their authentic selves. In fact, that's what fashion is all about. Maybe you think that what sets your company apart from this type of protest is you are a business that cares about people. That's not enough anymore. Now, not only do leaders have to take business risks, they are going to be forced to take personal risks. Vulnerability will become a power move in 2020.

How to slow down fast fashion | Design and Architecture - KCRW

Posted: 08 Oct 2019 01:44 PM PDT

A constant turnover of on-trend clothes, knockoffs of runway styles, all at knockdown prices. That is fast fashion.

Last week one of the top fast fashion companies, Los Angeles-based Forever 21, declared bankruptcy.

So does this mean that fashion is slowing down? Probably not. Industry watchers say Forever 21 was partly undone by competition from rival companies quicker to figure out and feed the tastes and shopping habits of a new 20-something generation. Ilse Metchek, president of the California Fashion Assn. trade group, told the Los Angeles Times that Fashion Nova, "a Los Angeles-based, online-only fast-fashion retailer known for its body-hugging silhouettes, 'is the new Forever 21.'"

"Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes" by Dana Thomas.

But one journalist sees the company's crash as indicative of a change in clothing consumption. Longtime fashion journalist Dana Thomas explores the labor and environmental costs of cheap clothing in "Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes." She also suggests a way out.

Thomas says the collapse of Forever 21 shows that "in today's marketplace, the old-school 'economies of scale'—the idea that you over-produce and chuck the leftovers—is not only bad for the environment; it's bad business. Zero-waste is the most profitable, and the way to go."

Melania Trump on June 21, 2018. Photo credit: Chip Somodevilla/Getty Images

She amplifies on this argument in an interview with DnA about her book, which she describes as "a mix of bad news, good news and hope for the future."

Her story kicks off with an infamous item of clothing -- Melania Trump's olive-green jacket bearing the words on the back, "I really don't care. Do U?" She was wearing it as she visited a child-detention center in Texas.

"It was the most existential garment ever made," Thomas said. The jacket was made of cotton, which "requires a kilo of chemicals for a kilo of cotton, just a horribly dirty product." It was made by Spanish retailer Zara, which "sells $20 billion worth of clothes every year," Thomas said, while "the average garment today is worn seven times before it's tossed."

The Panel Tank Pattern from Alabama Chanin.

Thomas has been writing about fashion for 30 years, having gotten her start as a teen model in the '70s.

"Working on this book definitely has changed the way I look at clothes," she said. She points to the dress she was wearing during her interview with DnA -- a navy blue organic cotton dress from Alabama Chanin.

The dress "was made to order in Alabama by a single seamstress who, when she finished sewing it, signed it." The dress costs more than a fast-fashion item, "but I will wear it ten times more and longer. And then the beauty of it is when it does finally wear out, because it's organic, I can put it in my compost and put it in my vegetable garden. So it continues on, it's circular, it has a longer life, it won't poison the planet, the worker who made it was well-treated, well-paid, I contributed to her health care and her retirement."

Jeanologia uses advanced laser technology to distress denim jeans, saving water, energy and chemicals. Image courtesy Jeanologia

Thomas also looks at the high cost of manufacturing blue jeans, which she calls "the most polluting garment in the business," from the water-hungry cotton to synthetic dyes. There is also a huge human cost: the machines used to distress jeans create unhealthy conditions for workers. While much of this work is outsourced overseas, Thomas points out that Los Angeles is "one of the greatest, largest centers for jeans processing and finishing today."

But Thomas finds optimism in Jeanologia, a company in Valencia, Spain that uses cleaner, safer technologies to distress jeans using lasers in a clean room, so the workers don't have to inhale the dust and fibers. They've also pioneered a system to wash the jeans using one glass of water, instead of the typical five gallons of water. The company has now been contracted by Levi's to do the finishing for their jeans.

"Fashionopolis" is Thomas' third book on the fashion industry, and focuses on the problems created when the profit motive overshadows concerns for the planet or for workers.

"And as long as you have that, and everything revolves around that, you will have unsustainable practices and human rights violations. It's when we put the product back into the center focus and we put all of our attention on that and we see profits as the byproduct and not the raison d'etre, that we then have a product of integrity. And we have a better society."